This old TJ Wrangler gets a full Core 4x4 Cruise Series lift kit and fixed-length lower control arms. If you have been thinking about lifting your Jeep TJ or LJ, this step-by-step install guide covers everything — from dealing with seized rusty bolts to relocating the rear track bar and properly torquing rubber bushings at ride height.
In this video, Spence from Core 4x4 walks through the complete TJ lift kit install in the shop: removing the factory suspension, cutting seized bolts on an older Jeep, installing new coil springs and shocks, bolting in fixed-length lower control arms, and modifying the rear track bar relocation bracket. Whether you are a first-timer or a seasoned wrench, there are real-world tips in here you will not find in most install manuals.
Fitment: Jeep Wrangler TJ 1997–2006 | Jeep Wrangler LJ (Unlimited) 2004–2006
What’s in the Cruise Series TJ Lift Kit
The Core 4x4 Cruise Series is a 2-inch lift kit designed for TJ and LJ Wranglers that want to run up to a 33-inch tire without overhauling the entire suspension. Here is what comes in the box:
- Front and rear coil springs — matched pair for a level 2” lift
- New shocks (all four corners)
- Steering stabilizer
- Bump stop extensions — prevents the front wheels from tucking up and ripping off your fender flares
- Rear track bar relocation bracket — keeps your rear axle geometry correct after the lift
- Fixed-length lower control arms (front and rear) — a new Core 4x4 product that centers your axles at the new ride height without any adjustability hassle
Why Fixed-Length TJ Lower Control Arms?
Most aftermarket TJ lower control arms are adjustable. That is great if you are constantly changing your lift height, but for the majority of TJ owners who install a 2–3 inch lift and leave it, adjustable arms add complexity you do not need. Core 4x4’s fixed-length lower control arms are built to the exact length required for a 2-inch lift. You bolt them in, torque them down, and forget about them.
The fixed-length design also eliminates the chance of one arm being set slightly different from the other, which can cause handling issues and uneven tire wear. For a bolt-in-and-go lift kit, this is the simplest, most reliable option.
Front Suspension Tear Down
Before touching a single bolt, Spence soaks everything with penetrating fluid. On an older TJ with rust, this step is not optional — it is the difference between a smooth teardown and a day full of broken bolts and sawzall blades.
The front teardown order:
- Remove the top shock bolts (needed vise grips on this TJ because the studs were spinning)
- Remove the bottom shock bolts and pull the shocks
- Disconnect the sway bar end links
- Support the axle with a jack, then lower it enough to remove the coil springs
- Install the bump stop extensions before the new springs go in
- Remove the lower control arm bolts
Dealing with Seized Bolts on a Rusty TJ
Two bolts in and they were already cutting. That is older Jeep life. Here is the key takeaway from this install: when a control arm bolt seizes to the crush sleeve inside the rubber bushing, you need to get your sawzall blade between the bracket and the sleeve — cutting the bolt itself, not the hardened steel crush sleeve.
If you cannot create a gap between the bracket and the sleeve, you will end up cutting through the crush sleeve too, and that hardened steel will eat through sawzall blades fast. On this TJ, one side cut clean through the bolt in seconds; the other side required going through the entire bushing and sleeve assembly. Budget extra time and extra blades if your TJ has any rust at all.
Pro tip: Pry the bracket open slightly with a flat bar before cutting. Even a small gap lets you get the blade onto the bolt shank instead of the hardened crush sleeve.
Front Install: Springs, Shocks, and Lower Control Arms
With the old parts out, installation is straightforward. Drop in the new coil springs, install the bump stop spacers, bolt up the new shocks, and slide in the fixed-length lower control arms.
Grease the bushings before install. Put a thin coat of grease on the outside of the rubber bushings before sliding the arms into the brackets. This gets lubricant to the actual wear surface right away, rather than waiting for grease to work its way through from the zerk fitting. Once the crush sleeve is clamped down, it is harder for grease to reach the outer contact area.
After the new taller springs are in and the axle is at full droop, you will need to maneuver the axle forward to get the lower control arm bolt holes to line up. Spence uses a cheater bar placed on top of the axle and under the tie rod to lever the axle into position. The rubber bushings have a natural preload resisting the new geometry — this is normal and will settle once the Jeep is at ride height.
Rear Suspension Tear Down
The rear is simpler than the front. Remove the shocks, lower the axle to pull the coil springs, and disconnect the rear track bar. On this TJ, the sway bar did not need to be disconnected — there was enough droop to work around it.
Rear Track Bar Relocation Bracket
When you lift a TJ, the rear track bar angle changes. If you do not correct it, the rear axle shifts to one side under the body. The track bar relocation bracket moves the frame-side mount up to restore the correct geometry.
Installing the relocation bracket requires drilling two holes through the existing OEM bracket:
- Bolt the relocation bracket onto the existing mount using the provided bolt and sleeve
- Use the bracket as a drill guide — drill through the existing holes so everything lines up perfectly
- Drill the rear hole with a 1/2-inch bit
- Drill the top hole with a 7/16-inch bit (different size for each — check your hardware)
- Bolt it all together and torque to spec
This is the only modification on the entire install. Everything else is bolt-on.
Rear Install and Final Assembly
With the bracket drilled and mounted, install the new rear coil springs, shocks, and lower control arms the same way as the front. The rear track bar gets bolted into the new relocation bracket position.
The Rubber Bushing Rule: Torque at Ride Height
This is the most important step of the entire install, and the one most people skip.
Since the fixed-length lower control arms use rubber bushings, you cannot torque them with the Jeep up on the lift. The crush sleeve inside a rubber bushing is bonded to the rubber. If you torque it at full droop, the sleeve locks in that position. When the Jeep comes down to ride height and the suspension compresses, the bushing cannot rotate to its neutral position — you create a preload that will destroy the bushing prematurely.
The correct procedure:
- Install all components and snug the bolts finger-tight (or just enough to hold)
- Put the wheels on and lower the Jeep to the ground
- With the full weight of the Jeep on the suspension at ride height, go around and torque all rubber-bushing fasteners to spec
- Do not forget the rear track bar and the lower shock bushing mounts
Also go around to the upper control arms — crack those bolts loose and re-torque at ride height so the factory rubber bushings reset to the new suspension angle.
| Component | Torque Spec |
|---|---|
| Lower control arm bolts | Torque to spec at ride height |
| Upper control arm bolts | Loosen and re-torque at ride height |
| Rear track bar bolt | Torque at ride height |
| Shock lower mount (rubber bushing) | Torque at ride height |
The Finished TJ
With the Cruise Series lift kit and fixed-length lower control arms installed, this TJ sits at a clean 2 inches of lift — enough to clear 33-inch tires without rubbing, and without the complexity of adjustable arms or major modifications. The only drilling was two holes for the rear track bar bracket. Everything else bolted right in.
Tools Required
- Floor jack and jack stands (or a two-post lift)
- Socket set (standard and metric)
- Torque wrench
- Penetrating fluid (PB Blaster or equivalent — soak everything before you start)
- Sawzall / reciprocating saw with metal-cutting blades (for seized bolts)
- Drill and drill bits (1/2” and 7/16” for the track bar bracket)
- Pry bar / cheater bar
- Vise grips / needle-nose pliers
- Grease and grease gun
- Sway bar end link disconnect (if needed)
Frequently Asked Questions
Shop TJ Wrangler Parts
Fitment: Jeep Wrangler TJ 1997–2006 | Jeep Wrangler LJ Unlimited 2004–2006. Questions? sales@core4x4.com | (385) 375-2104
