LJ Build pt.4 – Beadlock Tires & Front End Suspension Setup

Part four of the Core 4x4 LJ Wrangler build picks up right where the front suspension install left off. The lift kit hardware is bolted in — now it is time to bleed the brakes, mount the beadlock wheels and tires, settle the suspension, center both track bars, set the quick-release sway bar end links, torque every fastener to spec, and take the LJ out for its first drive on the new 3.5-inch Camp Series lift running 35-inch tires. This is the stage where the build goes from a Jeep on jack stands to a Jeep that actually drives.

Fitment: Jeep Wrangler TJ 1997–2006 | Jeep Wrangler LJ Unlimited 2004–2006

Where We Left Off

In the previous installment we completed the full front suspension install — bump stops, coil springs, upper and lower control arms, shocks, extended brake lines, and the basic track bar fitment. The rear suspension went in during part two. At this point the LJ has every suspension component bolted on, but nothing is torqued, the brakes have air in the lines, the wheels are off, and the suspension has never seen the weight of the vehicle. This video covers every step from here to the first test drive.

Bleeding the Brakes

Any time you disconnect a brake line — whether you are replacing the factory hard lines with extended stainless steel lines for a lift kit or simply swapping a caliper — air enters the system. Air compresses where fluid does not, so you lose pedal feel and braking force until every bubble is purged.

Brake Bleeding Order on TJ/LJ

The standard bleed sequence on a TJ or LJ is furthest from the master cylinder first:

1. Rear passenger side
2. Rear driver side
3. Front passenger side
4. Front driver side

Use a clear tube on the bleeder valve so you can watch for bubbles. Have someone pump the brake pedal three to four times, hold it down, then crack the bleeder. Close the bleeder before they release the pedal. Repeat until fluid runs clear with no air bubbles, then move to the next corner. Top off the master cylinder reservoir between corners — if it runs dry, you introduce more air and start over.

Pro tip: Keep a rag under every bleeder fitting. DOT 3 and DOT 4 brake fluid strips paint fast. If you drip any on a painted surface, flush it immediately with water.

How to Mount Beadlock Wheels and Tires

Beadlock wheels look great and they keep the tire bead locked to the wheel at low trail pressures — but they require a different mounting process than standard wheels. There is no bead-seating blast of air from a tire machine. You are mechanically clamping the outer bead between the wheel face and the beadlock ring.

Beadlock Mounting Steps

1. Lay the wheel face-down on a clean surface. The inner bead seats on the inner lip of the wheel just like a standard tire — you can use a tire machine or mount it by hand with soapy water and tire spoons.
2. Flip the wheel face-up and pull the outer bead over the beadlock ring mounting surface. The outer sidewall should sit flat against the wheel face with the bead draped over the outer lip area.
3. Set the beadlock ring over the outer bead and align it with the bolt holes.
4. Hand-start all bolts before tightening any of them. This keeps the ring from cocking to one side and pinching the bead unevenly.
5. Tighten in a star pattern — work across the ring, not around it. This applies even clamping pressure on the bead. The typical torque spec on beadlock ring bolts is around 15 to 20 ft-lbs, but always check the wheel manufacturer’s spec sheet.
6. Air up the tire and check for leaks around the inner bead. Soapy water on the inner bead area will show any escaping air as bubbles.

Why Beadlocks Matter on 35s at Low PSI

When you air down for the trail — sometimes as low as 8 to 12 psi on a 35-inch tire — the outer bead can break loose from the wheel during aggressive side-loading in turns or rock crawling. A broken bead means the tire can spin on the wheel or go flat instantly. Beadlock rings mechanically clamp the bead so it cannot break free no matter how low you air down. If you are running 35s off-road, beadlocks are not just cosmetic — they are functional insurance.

Settling the Suspension

Before you torque any suspension bolt to final spec, the suspension needs to settle at ride height. Here is why: every bushing in the control arms, track bars, and end links develops a natural resting position when the suspension is loaded. If you torque the bolts while the Jeep is on the lift with the suspension fully drooped, you pre-load the bushings. That pre-load creates a constant twisting force that wears the bushings out early and can affect ride quality.

The settling process is straightforward:

1. Lower the Jeep onto its wheels with all bolts snugged but not torqued.
2. Bounce each corner a few times to let the springs and bushings find their happy place.
3. Roll the Jeep forward and backward a few feet to let the axle settle into its natural position.
4. Let it sit for a few minutes at ride height before starting the torque sequence.

Setting and Torquing the Rear Track Bar

The track bar is what keeps the axle centered left-to-right under the frame. When you add 3.5 inches of lift, the factory track bar geometry changes and the axle shifts to one side. The adjustable Core 4x4 track bar corrects this.

How to Center the Rear Axle

With the Jeep sitting at ride height on all four tires:

1. Measure from the inside of the rear tire to the edge of the fender on both sides.
2. Compare the two measurements. If the driver side has more gap than the passenger side, the axle is shifted toward the passenger side (or vice versa).
3. Adjust the track bar length by loosening the jam nut and threading the bar in or out until both sides measure equal (or within 1/8 inch).
4. Tighten the jam nut while holding the bar with a second wrench to keep it from spinning.
5. Torque the track bar mounting bolts at both the frame end and the axle end. On TJ/LJ applications the typical torque is 125 ft-lbs at each end, but verify against your hardware spec.

Pro tip: Always measure tire-to-fender gap at the same height on both sides — pick a consistent reference point like the center of the wheel hub or the top of the tire. Measuring at different heights will give you false readings because the fender flare profile is not perfectly vertical.

Setting and Torquing the Front Track Bar

The front track bar follows the same centering process as the rear, but the mounting geometry is different. On the TJ/LJ the front track bar runs from the passenger-side frame rail down to the driver-side knuckle area on the axle. Because of the longer lever arm and the fact that steering loads pass through the front axle, getting the front track bar centered and properly torqued is even more critical than the rear.

After adjusting the bar to center the front axle (same tire-to-fender measurement method as the rear), torque both ends to spec. Recheck the centering after torquing — sometimes the bar shifts slightly as the bolts pull tight.

Setting the Quick-Release Sway Bar End Links

The JKS quick-release (or quick-disconnect) sway bar end links are one of the most practical upgrades on a lifted TJ or LJ. They allow you to disconnect the sway bar in seconds for off-road articulation, then reconnect it just as fast for on-road stability.

Setting the End Link Length

The end links are adjustable, and getting the length right is critical:

• Too short: the sway bar sits pre-loaded at ride height, which stiffens the ride and limits droop travel
• Too long: the sway bar hangs loose and rattles, and it will not engage until deep into the suspension travel
• Just right: the end link pin slides in and out freely at ride height with no preload on the bar

With the Jeep on the ground at ride height, adjust the end link length until the pin drops into the sway bar hole by hand — no prying, no force. If you have to push or pull the bar to align the hole, the link is the wrong length. Once the length is set, tighten the jam nut.

Tapping the End Link Pins

Even when the length is correct, the pins can be tight in the sway bar mount holes. A light tap with a hammer and punch is normal to seat the pin. Do not beat on it — if it takes more than a tap, recheck the length adjustment. The quick-release mechanism relies on the pin sliding freely, so forcing it in defeats the purpose.

Final Torque Sequence — Control Arms and Wheels

With both track bars centered and torqued, the sway bar end links set, and the suspension settled at ride height, it is time for the final torque pass on every remaining fastener:

Important: Torque specs above are general guidelines for TJ/LJ applications with standard Grade 8 hardware. Always verify against your specific kit’s installation instructions. Core 4x4 includes torque specs in the Camp Series and Crawl Series kit documentation.

Taking the LJ for Its First Drive

Once every bolt is torqued, the brakes are bled and firm, and the tires are aired up to street pressure, it is time for the first drive. This is not a shakedown run — it is a slow, careful evaluation of every system you just touched:

• Brakes: Pump the pedal before moving. It should feel firm and not sink to the floor. Test at low speed before hitting the road.
• Steering: The Jeep should track straight with no pull to either side. If it pulls, recheck the front track bar centering and consider an alignment.
• Suspension noise: Listen for clunks, pops, or rattles over bumps. A new clunk usually means a bolt that is not seated, a bushing that shifted, or a shock that is bottoming.
• Ride height: Check that the Jeep looks level side-to-side and that the front and rear heights match the kit’s spec. The Camp Series 3.5-inch kit should give roughly equal front and rear lift with some initial rake that settles over the first few hundred miles.

After the first 50 miles, come back and re-torque every fastener on this list. New bushings and hardware settle during the initial break-in period. A second torque pass catches anything that has relaxed.

Parts Used in This Build

Frequently Asked Questions

Related Links

• Core 4x4 TJ/LJ Wrangler Parts
• TJ/LJ Camp Series 3.5” Lift Kit
• TJ/LJ Crawl 3.5” Series Lift Kit
• Watch the Full Build Video on YouTube