Ram 2500 Complete Overhaul Pt. 2 — 3” Lift & Front Suspension Install
Part one of this build took care of the rear suspension on this 2018 Ram 2500—a 1-inch rear lift, soft-ride coils, Fox shocks, and a complete seven-piece rear kit in aluminum. Now it is time to finish the front. In this install we are adding a 3-inch lift with new coils, Core 4x4 boxed radius arms with 3-inch RockJock Johnny Joints, Fox Performance Series shocks, extended sway bar end links, an adjustable track bar, and 35-inch tires on Method wheels. By the end of this guide, every factory front suspension component under this truck has been replaced or upgraded.
What’s Going on This Truck
Here is everything going onto the front end of the Ram 2500 in this install:
- Core 4x4 Boxed Radius Arms — built from 3/16” plate steel, fully box-welded, internally gusseted, and completely enclosed to keep out water and grime. The frame-side pivot uses massive 3-inch RockJock Johnny Joints instead of the factory rubber bushings.
- 3” Lift Coil Springs — paired with a 1-inch spacer on the rear from Part 1, this gives the truck a level stance with room for 35s.
- Fox Performance Series Shocks — matched to the new lift height on all four corners.
- Core 4x4 Adjustable Track Bar — re-centers the axle under the frame after the lift and allows fine-tuning.
- Core 4x4 Extended Sway Bar End Links — corrects the sway bar geometry for the added lift height.
- 35” Tires on Method Wheels — the radius arms include an inward bend that clears a 35-inch tire on a factory-offset wheel with no rubbing. With more offset, a 37 or even a 40 is possible with trimming.
Why Upgrade the Factory Radius Arms?
The factory radius arms on the 2014–2024 Ram 2500 use rubber bushings at the frame pivot. Rubber works at stock height and under normal loads, but once you add a 3-inch lift the geometry changes enough to put the rubber in a compromised position. Over time, road vibration and off-road impacts tear through the bushings, introducing axle wrap and a vague steering feel.
The Core 4x4 radius arms solve this with the 3-inch RockJock Johnny Joint at the pivot end. Johnny Joints have an independent ball center—they do not take a preload when you torque them in the air, and they offer significantly more range of motion than rubber. That translates to better ride quality on the highway and more articulation off-road. The arms themselves are boxed and gusseted with 3/16” plate steel, so there is no flex under load even when towing.
One more detail worth calling out: these arms are designed for 3 inches of lift and above. They add back the wheelbase that a lift steals and give you enough caster adjustment range to dial in a proper alignment at lifted heights.
Tools and Supplies
- 18 mm socket and ratcheting wrench (highly recommended)
- Torque wrench capable of 200+ ft-lbs
- Penetrating fluid — apply generously to every bolt before you start
- Jack and jack stands (at least three for the front axle and pinion)
- Impact gun
- Hammer and pry bar
- Grease gun and grease for the Johnny Joint poly bushings
- Lug wrench and new lug nuts if running new wheels
Step 1: Prep and Order of Operations
With the axle supported on jack stands, the suspension is partially compressed. You need to remove the components that limit down-travel before you can droop the axle far enough to swap coils and arms. Here is the sequence:
- Disconnect the shocks, sway bar end links, and front track bar while there is still some compression on the suspension. These three parts are what limit droop.
- Disconnect the brake line from its bracket so it does not stretch when the axle drops.
- With those limiting factors removed, droop the axle enough to remove the coils and the factory radius arms.
Keep a jack stand under the pinion at all times. Once the radius arms come off, nothing is stopping the axle housing from rotating backward.
Step 2: Teardown
Start with the shocks—an 18 mm ratcheting wrench makes a big difference here. Remove the top and bottom bolts and pull the shocks out. Move on to the sway bar end links and the track bar.
Use penetrating fluid on everything. Even on a relatively new truck like this 2018, skipping the penetrating fluid turns a 20-minute job into an hour of fighting seized bolts. Soak every fastener before you pick up a wrench.
Once the shocks, end links, and track bar are out, the axle can droop freely. Remove the factory coil springs, then unbolt the factory radius arms. Keep the jack stand under the pinion—the axle will want to rotate once the arms are disconnected.
Step 3: Install the Radius Arms
The radius arms go on first because nothing else is supporting the axle at this point. Thread the axle-side bolts through the rubber bushings and get them started, then connect the frame-side Johnny Joint pivot and torque it to 200 ft-lbs.
Critical note on rubber bushings: The axle-side bushings are rubber, so you must not fully torque them while the truck is in the air. Torquing rubber bushings off the ground creates a preload that accelerates wear and causes premature failure. Get them snug enough to hold, but save the final 200 ft-lb torque for when the truck is back on the ground at ride height.
The frame-side Johnny Joint does not have this limitation. Its independent ball center means there is no preload regardless of when you torque it, so go ahead and torque that side to 200 ft-lbs now.
Step 4: Coil Springs, Shocks, and End Links
With the radius arms in place, drop in the new 3-inch lift coils. Use the jack to compress the axle up into the coils enough to seat them in the spring perch. Install the Fox Performance Series shocks next, then bolt on the new extended sway bar end links.
At this point the front suspension is structurally complete. The wheels and tires go on before the track bar, because the track bar is easier to install and adjust with the truck sitting on its wheels.
Step 5: Wheels, Tires, and Track Bar
Bolt on the 35-inch tires and Method wheels, then lower the truck to the ground. Now it is time for the track bar.
Track Bar Installation Trick
Pre-grease the polyurethane bushings before installation—work grease through the zerks and into the bushing so it is lubricated from the start. With the track bar loosely connected at the frame end, use the steering wheel to shift the axle left and right until the axle-side bolt hole lines up. This is far easier and safer than using ratchet straps or trying to pry the axle into position.
Once both ends are bolted in, adjust the track bar length so the axle is centered under the frame. The adjuster sleeve has a slit that must align with the open portion of the clamp.
Step 6: Torque Specs
| Fastener | Torque Spec | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Radius arm — frame side (Johnny Joint) | 200 ft-lbs | Can torque in the air; no preload concern with ball-center joint |
| Radius arm — axle side (rubber bushings) | 200 ft-lbs | Must torque on the ground at ride height to avoid preloading rubber |
| Track bar — frame and axle bolts | 200 ft-lbs | Both ends, final torque on the ground |
| Track bar adjuster sleeve clamp bolts | 60 ft-lbs | Align the slit in the sleeve with the clamp opening |
| Track bar jam nut | 250 ft-lbs | As tight as physically possible; you cannot over-tighten this one |
Settling the Lift: Why You Cannot Skip This Step
Brand-new coil springs need time to settle. The truck will sit slightly higher than its final ride height for the first few days. Here is the break-in procedure:
- Drive the truck for a day or two. Drop it off some curbs (at safe speeds) and work the springs through their travel.
- Come back and loosen the axle-side rubber bushings on the radius arms. Retorque them to 200 ft-lbs at the new settled ride height. This removes any preload that built up during the settling period.
- Get the alignment done after settling. If you align the truck the same day you install new springs, the alignment will shift as the springs settle and you will end up paying for two alignments.
This applies to every coil spring lift kit, not just the Ram 2500. Wait for settling, retorque, then align.
Fitment and Compatibility
- Ram 2500: 2014–present
- Ram 3500: 2013–present
- Radius arms designed for 3” of lift and above
- Clears 35” tires on factory-offset wheels with no rubbing
- 37” and 40” tires possible with additional offset and trimming
- Includes limiting-strap attachment points for trucks running heavy droop
- Bolt-on install—no cutting, welding, or drilling
