In This Guide
- Why Your Factory End Links Break
- Product Overview: What You Get
- Tools Required
- Before You Start: Grease and Orientation
- Removal: Taking Off the Factory End Links
- Installation: Bolting On the Core 4x4 End Links
- Torque Specs
- What Makes These Different from Other End Links
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Shop Toyota Parts
In This Guide
- Why Your Factory End Links Break
- Product Overview: What You Get
- Tools Required
- Before You Start: Grease and Orientation
- Removal: Taking Off the Factory End Links
- Installation: Bolting On the Core 4x4 End Links
- Torque Specs
- What Makes These Different from Other End Links
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Shop Toyota Parts
Factory front sway bar end links on the Toyota Tacoma, 4Runner, and FJ Cruiser are a known weak point. If you do any amount of off-roading or flexing, those stamped-steel OEM links will eventually snap. Core 4x4 built a heavy-duty replacement from 3/4-inch cold rolled steel with Johnny Joints at both ends — a direct bolt-in upgrade that works with any lift height on the factory spindle.
In this video, Spence from Core 4x4 walks through the product, shows you every tool you need, and does the full install on a third-gen Tacoma. The job takes about 30 minutes per side, requires basic hand tools, and the end links are available in anodized colors to match your truck.
Fitment: Toyota Tacoma 2005–2023 (2nd and 3rd gen) | Toyota 4Runner 2003–2024 | FJ Cruiser 2007–2014
Why Your Factory End Links Break
The factory front sway bar end links on these Toyota models are lightweight stamped-steel pieces with rubber-bonded bushings. They work fine on the highway, but the moment you start flexing the front suspension on trails, rocks, or uneven terrain, the thin material and stiff bushings cannot keep up. The link either bends permanently or snaps outright.
A broken end link is not the end of the world — you can still drive the truck home — but your front end will feel loose, the truck will lean more in corners, and you will hear clunking over bumps until you replace it. The Core 4x4 heavy-duty end links solve this with significantly thicker material and Johnny Joints that allow full articulation without binding.
Product Overview: What You Get
Each kit includes a pair of front sway bar end links with:
- 3/4-inch cold rolled steel construction — significantly stronger than the factory stamped-steel links
- Johnny Joints at both ends — spherical joints that rotate freely in all directions, eliminating the binding you get with rubber or polyurethane bushings
- Grade 10 hardware — all new bolts and nuts included
- Spacers — mounting spacers for the top Johnny Joint to set the correct angle behind the spindle
- 90-degree grease fittings — positioned for easy access on both the top and bottom joints
The end links in this video are finished in anodized blue to match the truck. Core 4x4 offers multiple anodized color options so you can match your build.
Key point: These end links work with any lift height as long as you are using the factory spindle. Unlike most sway bar end links that change length with the lift, the Tacoma and 4Runner front end links bolt straight in regardless of how much lift you are running.
Tools Required
- Impact wrench with 21 mm socket (for lug nuts if removing wheels)
- Dead blow hammer (in case the tire is stuck on the hub)
- Ratchet with 18 mm and 17 mm sockets
- 19 mm wrench
- 18 mm wrench
- Ratcheting 17 mm wrench (highly recommended — makes the job much faster)
- 5-1/2 mm Allen wrench (to hold the end link stud from spinning during removal)
- Flathead screwdriver (to align Johnny Joint bolt holes during assembly)
You do not have to remove the wheels to do this install, but Spence recommends it because it gives you much better access to the sway bar and end link mounting points.
Before You Start: Grease and Orientation
Before bolting anything on, there are two things to know about orientation and lubrication:
End Link Orientation
- Top fitting: The 90-degree grease fitting goes on top, positioned behind the spindle and pointing forward so you can reach it with a grease gun
- Bottom fitting: Also points forward for easy access
- Spacer placement: The included spacer goes between the top Johnny Joint and the spindle bracket. This spaces the link outward slightly to create a more vertical line, allowing the suspension to cycle properly
Grease Recommendations
Apply grease to the Johnny Joints during installation. After that, re-grease every 10,000 to 15,000 miles. Core 4x4 recommends a moly-based grease for all Johnny Joints and polyurethane bushings. Avoid synthetic lithium greases — they do not perform well with Johnny Joints or polyurethane components.
Removal: Taking Off the Factory End Links
Removal is straightforward:
- Lift the truck and remove the wheel (optional but recommended)
- Locate the end link connecting the sway bar to the spindle/knuckle
- Hold the stud with a 5-1/2 mm Allen wrench to keep it from spinning
- Remove the 17 mm nut using a ratcheting 17 mm wrench (a ratcheting wrench makes this go much faster in the tight space)
- Remove the top and bottom mounting nuts and pull the factory end link out
If your factory hardware is corroded, hit it with penetrating oil and let it soak for a few minutes before trying to break it loose.
Installation: Bolting On the Core 4x4 End Links
- Position the spacer behind the top Johnny Joint, between the joint and the spindle bracket
- Use a screwdriver to align the bolt holes on the Johnny Joints if they are not lined up — this makes threading the bolt through much easier
- Thread the top bolt through the spindle bracket, spacer, and Johnny Joint
- Thread the bottom bolt through the sway bar mount and lower Johnny Joint
- Torque both bolts to 85 ft-lbs
- Repeat on the other side
Torque Specs
| Component | Torque Spec |
|---|---|
| End link mounting bolts (top and bottom) | 85 ft-lbs |
Lesson from the video: Spence snapped a bolt during install because his torque wrench was reading inaccurately. Always verify your torque wrench calibration before working on suspension components. If 85 ft-lbs feels like it is going to break something, stop and check your wrench.
What Makes These Different from Other End Links
There are aftermarket end links available for the Tacoma platform, but most of them use polyurethane or rubber bushings. Here is why the Core 4x4 design with Johnny Joints is a better solution:
- No binding: Johnny Joints are spherical rod ends — they rotate in every direction without resistance. Poly bushings resist rotation and create a preload that can accelerate wear on other suspension components
- Stronger construction: 3/4-inch cold rolled steel versus stamped sheet metal. These will not bend or snap on the trail
- Universal lift compatibility: Unlike adjustable-length end links that need to be matched to your lift height, these bolt in and work with any lift as long as you are on the factory spindle
- Rebuildable: When the Johnny Joints eventually wear, you rebuild or replace the joints — not the entire end link
- Greaseable: The 90-degree fittings make maintenance easy. A shot of moly grease every 10,000–15,000 miles keeps the joints in top condition
Frequently Asked Questions
Related Content
- Toyota Tacoma Rear Suspension Upgrade and Install — complete rear control arm, track bar, and sway bar end link install for the 2024 Tacoma
- 3 Methods to Rebuild or Repair Your Johnny Joints — maintenance guide for when your joints eventually wear
- Why You Need Control Arms — educational overview of what control arms do and why upgrades matter
Shop Toyota Parts
Fitment: Toyota Tacoma 2005–2023 | 4Runner 2003–2024 | FJ Cruiser 2007–2014. Questions? sales@core4x4.com | (385) 375-2104