Skip to Content
ADD YOUR Vehicle — FIND EXACT-FIT PARTS

XJ Cherokee Lift Kit Install — Part 1: Front-End Teardown

Tearing down the entire front suspension on a neglected Jeep Cherokee XJ to prepare for Core 4x4’s Crawler 4-inch lift kit with long arm upgrade.

The Jeep Cherokee XJ holds a special place in the off-road world — and at Core 4x4. It was the first vehicle Spence ever built parts for, and this new build series puts a neglected XJ through a full transformation. In Part 1, Spence and Gabby tear down the entire front suspension on a Cherokee that has been sitting for years, getting it ready for Core 4x4’s Crawler 4-inch lift kit with a long arm upgrade.

This XJ had not been running, the doors barely opened, and rust had taken hold across the underside. Before any new parts go on, everything old has to come off. This teardown video covers removing the steering, track bar, control arms, shocks, springs, and sway bar — stripping the front axle down to bare metal.

 
 

Fitment: Jeep Cherokee XJ 1984–2001

The Build: What This XJ Needs

This Cherokee has been sitting for years. It would not start, needed a fuel pump, and the doors were stuck. Spence had to drag it into the shop just to begin. The goal for the full series is to install Core 4x4’s Crawler four-inch lift kit with a long arm upgrade, get it running, and take it out on the trails.

Spence and Gabby from Core 4x4 introducing the XJ Cherokee lift kit build series

Before any lift kit parts go on, every worn and rusted factory component on the front end has to come off. That means the steering, track bar, control arms, shocks, springs, sway bar, and brake lines are all being removed — leaving a completely bare front axle ready for new hardware.

Spence and Gabby standing in front of the XJ Cherokee project vehicle at Core 4x4 shop

Step 1: Spray Penetrating Fluid on Everything

After getting the XJ up on the lift and removing the wheels, the first move is saturating every bolt, nut, and bracket with penetrating fluid. This Cherokee has been sitting long enough that most of the hardware is corroded. Letting the fluid soak in before wrenching saves a lot of broken bolts.

Spence also sprayed the rear leaf spring hardware at this stage so it would have time to soak before the rear teardown in a future video. Leaf spring shackle bolts that go into the frame are notoriously bad on XJs — giving them extra soak time is worth it.

Spraying penetrating fluid on rusty XJ Cherokee front suspension components

Step 2: Remove the Steering and Track Bar

With the wheels off and everything soaked, Spence started by pulling the steering components and track bar. On past builds, the Pitman arm and drag link have been a real fight — but on this XJ, they came apart surprisingly easily.

Removing the steering linkage and track bar from the XJ Cherokee front axle

Track Bar Bracket: Save the Hardware

The factory track bar bracket on the XJ has a welded plate with two nuts that sits inside the frame. When you hammer the bolts through, that tab can fall back inside the frame rail and be lost. Save it — you need it when installing the new track bar bracket. On the axle end, the track bar bolts have welded nuts on the back side — save those bolts too, since the new bracket comes with its own mounting hardware.

The existing track bar on this XJ was hanging on by a thread and went straight into the trash.

XJ Cherokee front end on the lift with steering and track bar removed, showing rusty undercarriage

Step 3: Remove Control Arms, Shocks, Springs, and Sway Bar

With the steering and track bar out of the way, the next step is pulling the parts that actually hold the axle in place: upper and lower control arms, coil springs, shocks, and the sway bar. All of this hardware is being replaced with new Core 4x4 components.

Close-up of rusty XJ Cherokee front suspension showing corroded control arms, springs, and coil mount

Safety: Support the Axle

Once the control arms and shocks are removed, the front axle is only held in by the driveshaft. It can roll and shift. Spence placed jack stands under the axle to keep it stable and prevent it from falling. If you are doing this in a home garage on jack stands rather than a lift, be extra careful — the axle will drop once the springs come out.

Spence removing front suspension components from the XJ Cherokee with the axle supported on the lift

Stripped Shock Nut

The top shock nut in the engine bay was stripped and spinning freely. This is a common issue on older XJs. If you run into this, you may need to cut the stud or use a nut splitter to get the shock out.

Step 4: Let the Brake Lines Soak

The brake line fittings on this XJ were heavily corroded. Rather than risk stripping them, Spence left them soaking in penetrating fluid and will tackle them in the next video along with the long arm installation. If you strip a brake line fitting, you are looking at replacing the entire hard line — so patience here pays off.

XJ Cherokee front axle stripped bare with brake rotor visible and springs removed

What to Expect in Part 2

The front-end teardown is complete. In the next video, Spence and Gabby will remove the brake lines, install the long arm crossmember and brackets, and begin installing the Core 4x4 Crawler lift kit components — coil springs, shocks, and the full long arm control arm setup.

Tools and Supplies Used

  • Lift or jack stands and floor jack
  • Penetrating fluid (applied generously and given soak time)
  • Socket set and wrenches
  • Hammer and pry bar
  • Jack stands for axle support after spring removal
  • Cutting wheel or nut splitter (for stripped/seized hardware)

Frequently Asked Questions

For two people with a lift, expect about two to three hours for the full front-end teardown. Rusty hardware can add significant time. Spraying penetrating fluid the day before helps speed things up.

If you are installing a long arm kit, all the factory short arms come off and are replaced. Core 4x4 kits include all new hardware, so even if your factory bolts are in good shape, you will be using new grade 8 bolts from the kit.

The factory XJ track bar bracket has a welded plate with two nuts inside the frame rail. When you knock out the old bolts, this plate can fall loose inside the frame. Save it because you need it as a backing plate when installing the new track bar bracket. If you lose it, you have to run bolts through the frame with new hardware, which is more work.

Yes. Once the control arms and springs are removed, the only thing holding the front axle is the driveshaft. Place jack stands under the axle housing to prevent it from shifting or falling. The driveshaft alone will not keep the axle stable.

On a heavily corroded XJ, brake line fittings are prone to stripping if forced. Letting them soak in penetrating fluid for an extended period gives you a much better chance of getting them off cleanly. Stripping a fitting means replacing the entire hard line, so patience is the smarter approach.

Shop XJ Cherokee Parts

Fitment: Jeep Cherokee XJ 1984–2001. Contact: sales@core4x4.com | (385) 375-2104

Continue the Build

XJ Jeep Cherokee Long Arm Kit Install — Step-by-Step Guide
Complete step-by-step installation of the Core 4x4 long arm kit on a Jeep Cherokee XJ, including bracket removal, frame drilling, crossmember mounting, and torque specs.
Add your vehicle
Loading…
Add vehicle
SHOP BY VEHICLE
Home