In This Guide
- The Build: What This XJ Needs
- Step 1: Spray Penetrating Fluid on Everything
- Step 2: Remove the Steering and Track Bar
- Step 3: Remove Control Arms, Shocks, Springs, and Sway Bar
- Step 4: Let the Brake Lines Soak
- What to Expect in Part 2
- Tools and Supplies Used
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Shop XJ Cherokee Parts
In This Guide
- The Build: What This XJ Needs
- Step 1: Spray Penetrating Fluid on Everything
- Step 2: Remove the Steering and Track Bar
- Step 3: Remove Control Arms, Shocks, Springs, and Sway Bar
- Step 4: Let the Brake Lines Soak
- What to Expect in Part 2
- Tools and Supplies Used
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Shop XJ Cherokee Parts
The Jeep Cherokee XJ holds a special place in the off-road world — and at Core 4x4. It was the first vehicle Spence ever built parts for, and this new build series puts a neglected XJ through a full transformation. In Part 1, Spence and Gabby tear down the entire front suspension on a Cherokee that has been sitting for years, getting it ready for Core 4x4’s Crawler 4-inch lift kit with a long arm upgrade.
This XJ had not been running, the doors barely opened, and rust had taken hold across the underside. Before any new parts go on, everything old has to come off. This teardown video covers removing the steering, track bar, control arms, shocks, springs, and sway bar — stripping the front axle down to bare metal.
Fitment: Jeep Cherokee XJ 1984–2001
The Build: What This XJ Needs
This Cherokee has been sitting for years. It would not start, needed a fuel pump, and the doors were stuck. Spence had to drag it into the shop just to begin. The goal for the full series is to install Core 4x4’s Crawler four-inch lift kit with a long arm upgrade, get it running, and take it out on the trails.
Before any lift kit parts go on, every worn and rusted factory component on the front end has to come off. That means the steering, track bar, control arms, shocks, springs, sway bar, and brake lines are all being removed — leaving a completely bare front axle ready for new hardware.
Step 1: Spray Penetrating Fluid on Everything
After getting the XJ up on the lift and removing the wheels, the first move is saturating every bolt, nut, and bracket with penetrating fluid. This Cherokee has been sitting long enough that most of the hardware is corroded. Letting the fluid soak in before wrenching saves a lot of broken bolts.
Spence also sprayed the rear leaf spring hardware at this stage so it would have time to soak before the rear teardown in a future video. Leaf spring shackle bolts that go into the frame are notoriously bad on XJs — giving them extra soak time is worth it.
Step 2: Remove the Steering and Track Bar
With the wheels off and everything soaked, Spence started by pulling the steering components and track bar. On past builds, the Pitman arm and drag link have been a real fight — but on this XJ, they came apart surprisingly easily.
Track Bar Bracket: Save the Hardware
The factory track bar bracket on the XJ has a welded plate with two nuts that sits inside the frame. When you hammer the bolts through, that tab can fall back inside the frame rail and be lost. Save it — you need it when installing the new track bar bracket. On the axle end, the track bar bolts have welded nuts on the back side — save those bolts too, since the new bracket comes with its own mounting hardware.
The existing track bar on this XJ was hanging on by a thread and went straight into the trash.
Step 3: Remove Control Arms, Shocks, Springs, and Sway Bar
With the steering and track bar out of the way, the next step is pulling the parts that actually hold the axle in place: upper and lower control arms, coil springs, shocks, and the sway bar. All of this hardware is being replaced with new Core 4x4 components.
Safety: Support the Axle
Once the control arms and shocks are removed, the front axle is only held in by the driveshaft. It can roll and shift. Spence placed jack stands under the axle to keep it stable and prevent it from falling. If you are doing this in a home garage on jack stands rather than a lift, be extra careful — the axle will drop once the springs come out.
Stripped Shock Nut
The top shock nut in the engine bay was stripped and spinning freely. This is a common issue on older XJs. If you run into this, you may need to cut the stud or use a nut splitter to get the shock out.
Step 4: Let the Brake Lines Soak
The brake line fittings on this XJ were heavily corroded. Rather than risk stripping them, Spence left them soaking in penetrating fluid and will tackle them in the next video along with the long arm installation. If you strip a brake line fitting, you are looking at replacing the entire hard line — so patience here pays off.
What to Expect in Part 2
The front-end teardown is complete. In the next video, Spence and Gabby will remove the brake lines, install the long arm crossmember and brackets, and begin installing the Core 4x4 Crawler lift kit components — coil springs, shocks, and the full long arm control arm setup.
Tools and Supplies Used
- Lift or jack stands and floor jack
- Penetrating fluid (applied generously and given soak time)
- Socket set and wrenches
- Hammer and pry bar
- Jack stands for axle support after spring removal
- Cutting wheel or nut splitter (for stripped/seized hardware)
Frequently Asked Questions
Shop XJ Cherokee Parts
Fitment: Jeep Cherokee XJ 1984–2001. Contact: sales@core4x4.com | (385) 375-2104