Installing XJ Cherokee Front Fender Flares — Bushwacker Flat Flare Install Guide
If you have lifted your XJ Cherokee and moved to bigger tires, the factory fender openings are not going to cut it. On this build, a 35-inch tire was tucking all the way up into the fender at full flex, bending the sheet metal and limiting up travel. The fix: Bushwacker flat fender flares, which require trimming the factory fender to open up the wheel well and give you the clearance you need for off-road articulation.
Fitment: Jeep Cherokee XJ 1984–2001 | Bushwacker Flat Style Fender Flares (Front)
Why Flat Fender Flares on the XJ?
Spence and Marissa have been building this XJ Cherokee as part of the Core 4x4 build series. After installing a lift kit and running 35-inch tires, they discovered the front fenders were a problem. During a flex test, the tire tucked all the way into the fender well and bent the sheet metal. Rather than just adding bump stops to limit travel, flat fender flares let you trim the fender opening wider and gain actual up travel without tire-to-body contact.
The Bushwacker flat flares are plastic, which makes them more forgiving off-road than metal flares. If you catch a branch or rock on the trail, plastic flexes and bounces back. Metal flares can dent and cause body damage to the panels they mount against.
What Is in the Kit and What You Need
Kit Contents
- Two front fender flares — flat style, black textured plastic
- Fender flare supports — metal brackets that bolt inside the fender well to provide structure for the flare
- Fender flare seals — adhesive-backed rubber seal strips that sit between the flare and the body
- All mounting hardware — bolts, nut tabs, and fasteners
Tools Required
- Small socket set
- Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat head)
- Drill with 1/4” drill bit
- Angle grinder with cut-off wheel
- Angle grinder with flap disc (for smoothing edges)
- Tape measure
- Marker or paint pen
- Rattle can paint (for rust prevention on cut edges)
- Hammer (for folding sheet metal)
- Pick tool (for aligning holes with nut tabs)
- Safety glasses
Step 1: Install the Front Fender Support
The fender flare supports bolt inside the wheel well and provide the structural mounting points that the flare clips onto. Getting these positioned correctly determines how the flare sits against the body.
Front Reference Line
- Measure 3-3/4 inches from the front edge of the fender
- Mark a reference line at that measurement
- Line up the fender support bracket with the reference line, using the two pre-existing holes
- Drill a 1/4” hole at the marked mounting point
Hand-tighten the front support only — do not fully torque yet. You need everything loosely in place before marking your trim lines.
Rear Reference Line (Driver Side)
The rear fender support uses a different measurement set because of the body line transition:
- From the body line edge, measure 4-1/2 inches to one mark
- From the corner edge, measure 6-1/8 inches
- Connect those marks to create a reference line for the rear support
With both supports hand-tight, you now have reference edges for marking all your trim lines.
Step 2: Mark and Trim the Fender
This is the part of the install that makes people nervous — you are cutting your fender. Take your time with the marking, because accurate lines mean a cleaner finished product.
Marking the Cut Lines
- With the supports hand-tight, use them as a straight edge to mark along the inside of the fender
- The support edges define exactly where the fender metal needs to be trimmed
- Mark everything clearly with a paint pen before removing the supports
Rear Section: Cut and Fold Technique
On the driver side rear section, you do not just cut the metal off. Instead:
- Mark horizontal cuts approximately 1-1/2 inches apart
- Cut along those lines with the angle grinder
- Fold each tab inward and hammer it flat against the inner fender
- This gives you a finished edge instead of a wide-open gap
The same fold technique applies to the pinch seam at the rear — cut horizontal tabs, bend them flat, and hammer them tight against the wheel well.
Bottom Section
The bottom portion of the fender below the flare line simply gets cut out. Use the angle grinder with a cut-off wheel to remove the material, then switch to the flap disc to smooth all cut edges.
Important: Hit every cut edge with rattle can paint immediately after trimming. Bare steel will start rusting within days, especially if you drive in wet conditions or on salted roads.
Step 3: Grinding and Paint
After all cuts are made and tabs are folded:
- Go over every edge with the flap disc to remove burrs and sharp spots
- Clean the area with a rag
- Apply rattle can paint to all exposed metal
- Let it dry before proceeding — while the paint dries on one side, start trimming the other side
On this build, the XJ has a Rhino Liner coating on the body panels, so some of the sealing is different. On a standard painted Cherokee, the fender seal will sit flush against the body paint.
Step 4: Inner Fender Liner (Optional but Recommended)
If you plan to reuse your inner fender liner, there is additional trimming required. Spence initially planned to leave it off but changed his mind during the install. The process is straightforward:
- Hold the liner up against the trimmed fender opening
- Mark where it needs to be cut to sit flush with the new sheet metal edges
- Trim with the angle grinder or tin snips
- Bolt it back in
Keeping the inner liner gives you a splash guard and prevents mud, rocks, and debris from hitting the engine bay and wiring directly.
Step 5: Apply the Seal and Mount the Flares
With the fender supports bolted on and all trimming complete:
- Apply the adhesive fender seal along the inside edge of the flare — peel the tape backing as you press it into place
- Line up the flare with the nut tabs on the fender supports
- Slide the flare on and start the mounting bolts
- Use a pick tool to align holes with nut tabs if they do not line up perfectly
- Tighten all hardware until the flare sits snug against the body
On the driver side, everything went together smoothly. A pick tool was needed to align a couple holes with the nut tabs, but all fasteners seated properly and the flare pulled tight against the body.
Passenger Side Notes
The passenger side follows the same process. One thing Spence noted: on the passenger side, they did not even remove the wheel. The tire was not in the way for any of the measuring, cutting, or mounting on that side. That said, removing the wheel does make it easier to see and access the inner fender area.
The Finished Result
With the Bushwacker flat flares installed on both sides, this XJ has significantly more clearance around the 35-inch tires. The trimmed fender openings give the suspension room to cycle without the tire contacting the body — which was the entire point of this upgrade.
The flat style works well with the Rhino Liner and orange bumper on this build. The black textured plastic disappears against the body and keeps the aggressive look without adding metal that could cause body damage on the trail.
Install Difficulty and Time
| Factor | Details |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | Moderate — the trimming and folding is the most involved part |
| Time | 2–3 hours for both sides (longer if first time with angle grinder on body panels) |
| Lift Required | No — can be done in a driveway. A lift makes it easier but is not necessary |
| Reversible | No — fender trimming is permanent. Make sure you want this before cutting |
Key Measurements Summary
| Measurement | Value | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Front fender support reference | 3-3/4” from front fender edge | Front support bracket drill point |
| Rear body line reference | 4-1/2” from body line edge | Rear support bracket alignment |
| Rear corner reference | 6-1/8” from corner edge | Rear support bracket alignment |
| Fold cut spacing | 1-1/2” apart, horizontal | Tabs for folding rear fender section inward |
| Drill bit size | 1/4” | Mounting holes for fender supports |
Tips for a Clean Install
- Mark everything twice, cut once. Once the fender is trimmed, there is no putting it back
- Hand-tighten supports first. Get both supports loosely mounted before marking any cuts — they serve as your straight edge
- Fold instead of removing. On the rear sections, folding the tabs inward gives a finished edge and extra rigidity compared to just cutting the metal away
- Paint immediately. Every cut edge needs rattle can paint to prevent rust. Do not wait
- Keep the inner liner. It adds splash protection and a cleaner look inside the wheel well
- Use a pick tool. When aligning the flare with the nut tabs, a pick tool makes it much easier than trying to force the bolts through
Frequently Asked Questions
What Is Next for This XJ Build
The rear fender flares are coming in the next video in this XJ build series. The rears follow a similar process but have their own measurement and trimming differences. Stay tuned for that install.
Related Content
- How to Install Adjustable XJ Leaf Spring Shackles — another XJ suspension upgrade from Core 4x4
- XJ Cherokee Custom Long Arm Replacement — measuring, ordering, and installing custom control arms
- Why You Need Control Arms — educational overview of what control arms do and why upgrades matter
Shop XJ Cherokee Parts
Fitment: Jeep Cherokee XJ 1984–2001. Questions? sales@core4x4.com | (385) 375-2104
