Installing XJ Cherokee Rear Fender Flares -- More Clearance for Your Lifted XJ

Spence and Marissa install Bushwacker flat fender flares on the rear of a lifted Jeep XJ Cherokee. Covers the cutting, measuring, drilling, and hardware sequence plus a before-and-after flex test showing over an inch of extra tire clearance.

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If you have lifted your Jeep XJ Cherokee and added bigger tires, your factory fenders are probably limiting your up travel and putting your tires at risk. Fender flares open up the wheel well, give you the clearance you need to flex without rubbing, and clean up the look of a built XJ. In part two of the fender flare series, Spence and Marissa from Core 4x4 install the rear Bushwacker flat fender flares on their shop XJ — and the difference in clearance is immediate.

Last week they tackled the front flares, and this install follows the same general process: a little cutting, a little drilling, and bolt-on hardware. If you missed the front fender flare video, watch that first — it covers the same Bushwacker flat flare kit and the basic approach. This post walks through the rear-specific measurements, the cutting sequence, hardware differences, and the flex test results at the end.

Fitment: Jeep Cherokee XJ (1984–2001) | Bushwacker Flat Fender Flare Kit (all four corners included in the kit; this video covers the rear pair)

Spence and Marissa from Core 4x4 standing next to the lifted Jeep XJ Cherokee in the shop before the rear fender flare install

What You Need for the Rear Install

The Bushwacker flat flare kit comes with all four fender flares, but the rear install has its own hardware bag. Here is what you will need on hand:

Rear fender flares (included in the Bushwacker flat flare kit)
Rear fender supports (included in the kit)
Screwdrivers
Marking tool — marker or scratch-all
Small socket set
Hammer
Tape measure
Safety glasses
Rattle can paint (for rust prevention on cut edges)
Drill with drill bits (7/64-inch and 1/4-inch)
Angle grinder with cut-off wheel

Tools needed for the rear fender flare install laid out on a workbench including screwdrivers, marking tool, socket set, hammer, tape measure, safety glasses, rattle can, and drill bits

Step 1: Initial Fender Trim

Before you can mock up the fender flare supports, you need to trim a small section of the factory fender to make room. You will keep all of the factory holes intact except for one — there is a large hole at the bottom of the fender that you cut right through. From there, follow the body crease line all the way around with the angle grinder.

If you are comfortable with an angle grinder, you can follow the crease freehand without marking it. Otherwise, use a marker to trace the body line first. The cut does not need to be surgical — the fender flare covers the edge.

Spence marking the guideline support measurements on the XJ rear fender showing 3/8 inch from the door jamb on the front corners and 11-3/8 inches from the back of the Jeep on the rear

Step 2: Mark Your Fender Flare Support Guidelines

The fender flare supports bolt to the fender and hold the flare in place. Each support has specific reference points for alignment:

Front Fender Support (Four-Door Models)

Measure 3/8 of an inch on each corner from the inside of the door jamb. This gives you the reference line for the front fender flare support position.

Rear Fender Support

Use the bottom body line as your baseline and measure 11-3/8 inches from the back of the Jeep. That measurement gives you the reference point to line up the rear support.

Step 3: Horizontal Cuts and Fold-In

This is where the angle grinder really earns its keep. The horizontal cuts allow you to fold the inner edge of the fender back so it tucks behind the flare support:

Start your horizontal cuts about 3 inches above the body line
Make horizontal cuts about 1.5 inches apart going all the way down to the bottom
Cut out the top section entirely
Fold each strip inward — they should bend easily along the cut lines

Safety note: Wear safety glasses for this step. Cutting and folding sheet metal sends sparks and small fragments everywhere. As Marissa reminded Spence mid-cut — put your glasses on.

Spence using an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel to trim the rear fender of the Jeep XJ Cherokee with sparks flying

Step 4: Drill Mounting Holes

With the cutting and folding done, you need to drill two sizes of holes for the fender flare support mounting hardware:

Top two holes: Use a 7/64-inch drill bit
Bottom two holes: Use a 1/4-inch drill bit

Once all the holes are drilled and the edges are folded in, spray the exposed metal with rattle can paint to prevent rust. Do both sides — complete all the prep work before you start bolting anything on.

Spence drilling mounting holes in the rear fender of the XJ Cherokee for the fender flare support brackets

Step 5: Bolt On the Fender Supports

With the prep work done on both sides, you are ready to mount the fender supports. The rear supports use a slightly different hardware setup than the front:

Top small hole: The kit includes a special screw and spacer for this mounting point on both sides
Remaining factory holes and the 1/4-inch hole you drilled: Standard nuts and bolts from the kit
Two lower holes on each fender: Use the "tough lock" fasteners — there is no access to the back side of these holes because they are inside the body

Before bolting the fender supports on, install the speed clips (also called nut tabs) onto the fender support. These give the fender flare bolts something to thread into when you mount the flare itself in the next step.

Spence bolting the rear fender flare support bracket onto the XJ Cherokee with the fender trimmed and folded

Step 6: Mount the Fender Flares

With the supports in place, the fender flares bolt directly to the speed clips on the support brackets. This is the straightforward part — line up the flare, start the bolts by hand, and tighten them down evenly. Repeat on the other side.

Spence checking the clearance between the tire and the newly installed rear fender flare on the XJ Cherokee

The Flex Test: Before and After

The whole point of this install is more clearance, and the results speak for themselves. Before the flares, the rear tires would contact the fender at full tuck. After the install:

Rear clearance: A full inch and a half of clearance between the tire and fender at full flex — no contact at all
Up travel improvement: Significantly more suspension travel before any interference
Front still needs work: The front was still making contact during the flex test, so bump stops are the next priority

The rear went from tucking against the fender to having plenty of room. This is exactly the kind of clearance gain that makes a fender flare install worthwhile on a lifted XJ — especially if you plan to hit the trails.

Spence and Marissa standing in front of the completed XJ Cherokee with the new rear fender flares installed showing the finished look

Tips from the Install

Do all your prep work on both sides before bolting anything on. Cut, fold, drill, and paint both fenders first. Then come back and do the hardware on both sides. This saves time and keeps you from rushing.
Follow the body crease line for your main cut. If you are comfortable with an angle grinder, you do not need to mark it — the crease is your guide.
Keep all factory holes except the large one at the bottom. The factory holes are your mounting points for the supports.
Paint exposed metal immediately. Even a quick coat of rattle can prevents rust from starting on the cut edges while you finish the rest of the install.
The tough lock fasteners are your friend. On the two lower holes where you cannot reach the back side, these fasteners lock into the sheet metal without needing a nut behind it.

What Is Next for the XJ Build

This XJ is getting close to finished. The rear fender flares are done, but the flex test showed the front still needs bump stops to prevent tire contact. After that, the plan is a rear bumper install, then wheels and tires, and some interior cleanup before hitting the trail. Stay tuned for the rear bumper video.

Frequently Asked Questions

Yes. The Bushwacker flat flare kit requires trimming the factory fender, making horizontal cuts to fold the inner edge, and drilling new mounting holes. It is not a bolt-on-only install — you will need an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel and a drill. The cuts are straightforward and the flare covers the trimmed edge completely.

You need a 7/64-inch drill bit for the top two holes and a 1/4-inch drill bit for the bottom two holes on each side. The kit instructions specify these sizes for the rear fender flare support mounting points.

On this XJ build, the rear fender flares went from zero clearance at full flex (tire touching fender) to about an inch and a half of clearance between the tire and fender at maximum suspension travel. The exact gain depends on your lift height, tire size, and suspension setup, but the improvement in up travel is significant on any lifted XJ.

You can, but the primary benefit of fender flares is clearing larger tires and gaining up travel on a lifted rig. On a stock-height XJ, the factory fenders usually provide enough clearance. Most people install flares after adding a lift kit and larger tires when the factory fender starts limiting suspension travel or causing tire rub.

Possibly. Fender flares increase the space around the tire, but they do not limit suspension travel. If your lift is tall enough that the tire can still contact the fender liner, body, or flare at full tuck, you will need bump stops to prevent that. In this video, the rear had plenty of clearance after the flare install, but the front still needed bump stops — every setup is different.