In Part 2 of the XJ Cherokee lift kit install series, Gabby and Spence from Core 4x4 tackle the rear end — tearing down the rear leaf springs, shocks, and brake lines, then installing the new lift kit components. If you missed Part 1, that covered the long arm kit install on the front. This video picks up where that left off and gets the rear suspension completely rebuilt.
The Jeep has been soaking in penetrating fluid for a week and a half, which is critical on an older XJ where frame shackle bolts and u-bolts are notorious for seizing. Gabby and Spence walk through every step — including how to deal with broken shock bolts, crush sleeves that fuse to shackle bolts, and how to fish new hardware into the subframe when everything goes wrong.
Fitment: Jeep Cherokee XJ 1984–2001
Game Plan: Rear Suspension Teardown
The approach is the same as the front end from Part 1 — strip everything down to the bare axle. The only things staying attached are the brake lines and the e-brake cable. The shocks are saved for last to keep some stability while working with the axle up in the air.
The plan is to complete everything on the rear except bleeding the brakes. That gets done after the WJ knuckle swap and high steer kit go on the front end, when the Jeep is back on the ground.
Brake Line Relocation
With the new lift kit, the brake lines need to be repositioned. The distribution block gets moved, and the two hard lines feeding it need to be bent to line up straight with the new block position.
Key Tips for Brake Line Work
- Do not tighten the block all the way down until both hard lines are threaded in — the block position may need slight adjustment to align
- Bend lines away from the fittings — bending at or near a fitting risks cracking the line or damaging the flare
- Thread lines in straight — if a line enters the block at an angle, you risk cross-threading and will need a new brake line
- Hand-bend first — most repositioning can be done by hand or with pliers, applying gentle pressure to the line body
- Do not bolt down the block and then force lines in — that puts stress on the fittings and can cause leaks when you bleed the brakes
Leaf Spring Removal: Watch for Fused Crush Sleeves
The leaf spring bolts on an XJ are some of the most problematic fasteners on the vehicle. Even after soaking for a week in penetrating fluid, these bolts can give you trouble.
The Crush Sleeve Problem
A common issue: the bolt fuses to the crush sleeve inside the leaf spring bushing. When you start loosening the bolt, it gets easy at first — then suddenly gets very hard. That is the crush sleeve spinning inside the bushing and trying to force its way out against the bracket.
The fix:
- If the bolt is spinning freely, you may be able to work it out with patience
- If the crush sleeve is spinning with the bolt, you need to cut the bolt, not the crush sleeve
- The crush sleeve is usually hardened steel — cutting through it is extremely difficult
- Cut through the bolt head or shank where it is accessible, then drive the remaining pieces out
Shock Removal: Broken Upper Bolts
With one leaf spring out, Spence tackles the shocks on that side first for better access. This is where things get interesting — the small 8mm upper shock bolts on XJ Cherokees are notorious for snapping off.
On this Jeep, both upper bolts on the driver side broke immediately. This is expected on older XJs — the bolts are small, they sit in a pocket that traps moisture, and they corrode until they shear.
How to Fix Broken XJ Shock Bolts
This is one of the most useful sections if you are working on an older XJ. Here is the complete fix:
Step 1: Remove the Welded Nut Tab
Behind the subframe, there is a welded nut tab where the shock bolt threads in. With the bolt snapped off, you need to hammer this tab out. An air hammer with a punch is the best tool. If you do not have one, a punch and sledgehammer will work — it just takes more effort.
Step 2: Clean Up the Holes
Once the welded nut tab is out, drill through the hole slightly oversized. The welded nut can leave jagged flanges on the inside of the subframe that will prevent new hardware from fitting.
Step 3: Fish New Bolts Through the Subframe
This is the hardest part of the fix. The bolt needs to pass through the inside of the subframe and come out the bottom. Use a piece of welding wire:
- Feed the wire down through the subframe from the top
- Bend the end of the wire so it hooks the bolt
- Pull the bolt up through the subframe with the wire
- Once the bolt is through, remove the wire
Step 4: Tighten the New Bolts
With the shock mounted and the new bolts in place, hand-tighten the nuts first. Then use a wrench on the bolt head from where you fished it in (inside the subframe) while using an impact or ratchet on the nut from below. Having a second person helps — one holds the wrench on top while the other tightens the nut.
New Leaf Spring and Adjustable Shackle Install
With the old parts out and the shock bolt issue fixed, installation is straightforward:
- Leaf spring: The bottom of the spring has a nub that sits on the axle perch — line that up, then bolt the u-bolts in place. The springs are heavy, so get a second person to help position them
- U-bolts: The kit includes new u-bolts. Torque to 65 ft-lbs
- Adjustable shackle: Mount the shackle to the frame first. Frame bolt torque is 120 ft-lbs
- Shocks: Install with new hardware
Adjustable Shackle Setup
The adjustable shackles included in the kit give you fine-tuning control over the rear lift height. For initial setup, thread them out about a quarter inch from center — new springs tend to sit a little low in the rear at first and will settle over a few hundred miles.
Final adjustment happens after the full build is complete, the Jeep is on the ground under its own weight, and the springs have settled.
Torque Specs and Bushing Rules
| Component | Torque Spec |
|---|---|
| Leaf spring u-bolts | 65 ft-lbs |
| Shackle mount to frame | 120 ft-lbs |
Rubber Bushing Rule: Do NOT Torque in the Air
This is the same rule from Part 1. All rubber bushings on the rear — leaf spring eye bushings, lower shock bushings, and front upper axle-side bushings — cannot be torqued until the Jeep is on the ground under its own weight.
Rubber bushings have a bonded sleeve. If you torque them at full droop, the sleeve locks in that position. When the suspension compresses to ride height, the bushing creates a preload that destroys it prematurely. The shackle mount to the frame and the u-bolts can be torqued on the lift because they are not through rubber bushings.
Passenger Side: Same Process, Better Luck
The passenger side went smoother. The shock bolts did not break (which Gabby celebrated), and the leaf spring bolts came out without needing to be cut. The install was identical to the driver side — new leaf spring, new shackle, new shock, same torque specs.
What is Left in This Build Series
With the rear end done, the remaining work is:
- WJ knuckle swap and high steer kit — next video in the series
- Front track bar install — waiting for the knuckle swap to be done first
- Final torque on all rubber bushings — once the Jeep is on the ground
- Brake bleeding — after all four corners are assembled
- Ride height adjustment — fine-tune the adjustable shackles and let the springs settle
Tools Required for the Rear End
- Floor jack and jack stands (or a lift)
- Socket set (metric and SAE)
- Torque wrench (up to 120 ft-lbs)
- Penetrating fluid (PB Blaster or similar — soak at least a week ahead of time)
- Cutting wheel / angle grinder (for seized bolts)
- Punch and hammer or air hammer
- Drill and drill bits (slightly oversized for cleaning bolt holes)
- Welding wire (for fishing bolts through subframe)
- Pry bar
- Line wrenches (for brake fittings)
- Pliers (for bending brake lines)
- A friend (leaf springs are heavy)
Frequently Asked Questions
Related Content
- Core 4x4 XJ Cherokee Lift Kits
- Core 4x4 XJ Long Arm Kits
- How to Install Adjustable XJ Leaf Spring Shackles — standalone shackle install guide
Shop XJ Cherokee Parts
Fitment: Jeep Cherokee XJ 1984–2001. Core 4x4 — sales@core4x4.com | (385) 375-2104
