If you have been building up your Jeep XJ Cherokee underneath — long arm kit, lift, shocks, steering — and then set it back down and realized the body still looks rough, a Rhino line job might be the fastest way to make the outside match the underside. In this video, Spence and Gabby from Core 4x4 Rhino line their shop XJ Cherokee from hood to tailgate, turning a sun-faded, rust-pitted trail Jeep into something that actually looks the part.
This is not a professional spray booth situation. This is a DIY-at-home approach — scuff it, sand it, mask it, treat the rust, seal it, and spray. The whole job cost roughly $500 in materials, and anyone with a garage or empty warehouse can do the same thing. The prep takes the most time (and it is the part everyone hates), but the actual spraying goes fast once everything is ready.
Vehicle: Jeep Cherokee XJ (1984–2001) | This XJ had been sitting for 5+ years with severe sun damage and rust on the roof and hood
Why Rhino Line an XJ Cherokee?
Rhino lining (or bed lining) your entire Jeep is not a new idea, but it makes especially good sense on an XJ Cherokee that is being built as a trail rig. Here is why:
- Tough exterior: Bed liner is impact-resistant, UV-stable, and does not care about trail rash from branches, rocks, or tight squeezes
- Hides imperfections: Dents, scratches, faded paint, and minor rust all disappear under the textured coating
- Budget-friendly: A full-body Rhino line at home costs around $500 in materials — far cheaper than a paint job
- No maintenance: You do not need to wax it, polish it, or worry about rock chips ever again
- Trail-ready look: The matte textured finish gives the XJ an aggressive, purpose-built appearance
This XJ had been sitting in the sun for six years. The paint was oxidized, the roof had deep rust pitting, and the hood was in bad shape. A traditional paint job would have been expensive and pointless for a trail Jeep. Rhino lining was the right call.
What You Need for a DIY Rhino Line Job
Here is the full supply and tool list Spence and Gabby used on this build:
Materials (~$500 total)
- Rhino line kit — Sherwin-Williams house brand bed liner (spray-on)
- Rust treatment — 415 rust preventative/killer for problem areas
- Sealer/primer coat — applied after rust treatment and before the liner
- Masking tape and paper — automotive masking tape for all glass, trim, lights, and weather stripping
- Drop cloths or tarps — protect the floor from overspray
Tools
- Orbital sander or DA sander
- Sandpaper (80–120 grit for scuffing)
- Spray gun (included in most bed liner kits)
- Air compressor (for spray gun)
- Screwdrivers and trim removal tools
- Soap and water (for washing before sanding)
- Rags and cleaning solvent
Step 1: Strip the Exterior
Before any sanding or masking, you need to get the Jeep down to just the panels you are painting. Spence and Gabby removed:
- All exterior trim pieces
- Bumpers (front and rear)
- Cherokee lettering and badges
- Roof rack
- Any accessories that are not getting coated
The goal is to expose every surface that needs Rhino lining and eliminate anything that would create masking headaches or trap overspray underneath.
Step 2: Sand and Scuff Every Surface
This is the most important step and the one that takes the longest. The Rhino liner needs a rough surface to bond to — if you skip the sanding or do a lazy job, your coating will peel.
Spence used an orbital sander with 80–120 grit to scuff every panel on the Jeep: roof, hood, fenders, doors, quarter panels, and tailgate. On areas with heavy rust (the roof and hood on this XJ), he sanded more aggressively to remove as much loose rust as possible.
The reality: The prep is always the most work on a project like this, and it is the part that everybody hates the most. But it is also the most important part. If you do not do your prep right, your coating is going to fail.
Step 3: Mask Everything
After sanding, wash down the entire Jeep to remove dust and debris. Then mask off everything that is not getting sprayed:
- All glass — windshield, side windows, rear window
- Weather stripping — door seals, window seals
- Headlights and taillights
- Mirrors
- Door handles (unless you want them coated)
- Tires and wheels
- Any chrome or trim you plan to reinstall
Use automotive masking tape and paper. Take your time here — bad masking means overspray on your glass, and that is a pain to remove from bed liner.
Step 4: Rust Treatment
Once everything is sanded and masked, focus on the problem areas. On this XJ, the worst spots were the roof (deep pitting from years of sun and moisture) and the hood.
Spence used a 415 rust preventative — a chemical rust killer that converts existing rust into a stable surface. Apply it to every area where you found bare metal or active rust during sanding. Let it dry completely before moving to the sealer coat.
This step is critical if your XJ has any rust at all. If you spray Rhino liner over active rust, the rust will continue to spread underneath the coating and eventually cause it to bubble and lift.
Step 5: Sealer/Primer Coat
After the rust treatment has dried, apply a sealer coat over the entire Jeep. The sealer does two things:
- Locks in the rust treatment and provides a uniform surface
- Gives the Rhino liner something extra to grip — better adhesion than spraying directly over old paint
The sealer on this build flashed (dried to the touch) in about 15 minutes. Once it is no longer tacky, you are ready for the Rhino line.
Step 6: Spray the Rhino Liner
This is the fun part and it goes surprisingly fast once the prep is done. Using the spray gun from the bed liner kit, Spence coated the entire Jeep:
- Start from the back where it is less visible — this lets you dial in your spray pattern before hitting the hood and sides
- Apply even, overlapping passes
- Watch for runs — bed liner is thick and can sag on vertical panels if you apply too much at once
- Multiple light coats are better than one heavy coat
The Rhino liner is noticeably sticky and thick coming out of the gun — it has a lot more body than regular paint. The textured finish builds up naturally as you spray.
The Result
After removing the masking tape and paper, the transformation is dramatic. The XJ went from a faded, rust-spotted, sun-damaged mess to a clean, aggressive, textured black finish that is ready for the trail.
Spence and Gabby both noted that the Rhino line actually makes the other things that still need attention — wheels, windshield, bumpers, flares — stand out more. But the body itself looks great, and the coating will hold up to anything the trail throws at it.
Cost Breakdown
| Item | Approximate Cost |
|---|---|
| Rhino line / bed liner kit (spray-on, Sherwin-Williams house brand) | ~$300 |
| Rust treatment (415 rust preventative) | ~$30 |
| Sealer/primer coat | ~$50 |
| Masking tape, paper, and tarps | ~$40 |
| Sandpaper and sanding discs | ~$30 |
| Miscellaneous (rags, solvent, etc.) | ~$50 |
| Total: approximately $500 | |
Note: If you already own an air compressor and orbital sander, the material cost is the main expense. If you need to rent or buy those tools, add another $100–$200.
Tips for Rhino Lining Your XJ at Home
- Do not rush the prep. Sanding, cleaning, and masking take 70% of the total time. The spray itself takes 30 minutes. Budget a full weekend for the project.
- Treat all rust first. Bed liner over active rust will fail. Spend the extra hour with a rust converter on every problem spot.
- Use a sealer coat. Do not spray bed liner directly over old paint. A sealer gives you dramatically better adhesion.
- Start on the least visible panel. Practice your spray technique on the back or roof before moving to the hood and fenders where mistakes are more obvious.
- Work in a ventilated space. Bed liner fumes are strong. A garage with the door open or an empty warehouse (like this build) is ideal.
- Mask aggressively. It is much easier to mask more than you think you need to than to scrape dried bed liner off glass.
- Multiple thin coats. Thick coats run and sag on vertical panels. Two or three lighter passes build up the texture evenly.
XJ Cherokee Build Series Recap
This Rhino line job is the latest in the Core 4x4 XJ Cherokee build series. Here is the full list of work that has gone into this Jeep:
- Suspension: Full long arm kit, lift, shocks
- Steering: Upgraded steering components
- Exterior: Rhino line (this video), with bumpers, fender flares, wheels, and tires still to come
The XJ went from a non-running Jeep that had been sitting for five years to a fully suspended, Rhino-lined trail rig. Future videos will cover bumpers, flares, wheels, tires, and accessories — drop your suggestions in the YouTube comments.
Frequently Asked Questions
Watch the Full XJ Build Series
- XJ Off-Road Bumper Install
- XJ Front Fender Flares
- XJ Rear Fender Flares
- XJ Cherokee Wheels and Tires
Shop XJ Cherokee Parts
Questions about your XJ build? Reach out to the Core 4x4 team: sales@core4x4.com | (385) 375-2104
